I recently walked along Broadway, starting at the Broadway Pier and traveling east. Within one mile, I saw two different cities: a waterfront area rich with natural beauty and modern amenities, and a crumbling downtown that has rapidly deteriorated since I moved into the neighborhood.
This information may not sell you on the walk, but read on for some information about the current state of San Diego’s urban core.
The Walk. From Broadway Pier, it’s approximately one mile to Balboa Theatre on Fourth Avenue (not far from the intersection with Broadway). The entire walk is paved and flat, so it’s suitable for those using strollers or mobility aids (though you will cross trolley and train tracks).
Note: if the new downtown parking costs are a deterrent, take either the trolley or Coaster to Santa Fe Depot for this outing. Just seeing Santa Fe Depot itself is worth the journey.
West of Pacific Highway. When folks ask how I like living downtown, I struggle to find the words. One thing I tell them: I love the proximity to the bay. There’s a ton of research showing the health benefits of living near water. If you’re looking for a comprehensive exploration of the topic in reader-friendly language, check out Blue Mind by Wallace J. Nichols. The San Diego Public Library has eight copies, so put your library card to use!
Broadway Pier is one of my favorite spots to enjoy bayfront views. It’s a superb spot for watching boats of all kinds pass through the harbor. Plus, it’s my go-to spot in December for the San Diego Bay Parade of Lights. At the pier, look for Tidal Radiance by Leni Schwendinger. It’s one of many public art pieces along the waterfront.
Across Harbor Drive from the pier is the former Lane Field. Home to the Padres baseball team from 1936 to 1957, it served as a cruise ship stop before recently being transformed into a park. On any given weekend, you can enjoy the power of park spaces as local vendors and musicians activate the area. Lounge under an umbrella on the grassy lawn while enjoying eats from food vendors.
Before you leave, look for the plaque at the corner of Broadway and Harbor Drive commemorating the former ballpark. From there, you can trace out the field and pitcher’s mound.
Start to walk east and you can’t miss the massive Pacific Soul sculpture by Jaume Plensa at the corner of Pacific Highway and Broadway. It’s composed of alphabet characters creating the shape of a human body. It’s situated right in front of Animae, one of downtown’s most popular restaurants and proof that, perhaps, there is still hope for a vibrant core community.
Santa Fe Depot. As you cross the train and trolley tracks, another piece of history awaits. The Santa Fe Depot station provides services to Amtrak, the Coaster commuter rail, and the San Diego trolley. It officially opened in 1915 as part of the Panama-California Exposition.
Admire its architecture and also look for the mosaic work of Betsy Schulz’ Mission to Masterpiece. If the artist’s name sounds familiar, it’s because she’s done a ton of mosaic work in the region, including the arches of the Solana Beach Coastal Rail Trail and at the nearby Fletcher Cove.
First to Fourth. This is the section of the walk where your spirits will dip. As you approach First Avenue, you’ll spy the sign for Spreckels Theatre. This once celebrated theater has been empty since the pandemic. Like its neighbor, Horton Plaza/the Campus at Horton, there are no signs of life.
Fortunately, Balboa Theatre has survived, but that’s where a lot of hope for downtown ends on this Broadway walk. Should you continue to walk further east, you’ll no doubt be shocked at the unsafe and unsanitary conditions that downtown residents and workers bear on a daily basis.
While the Downtown San Diego Partnership and Prebys Foundation express optimism for the future of our urban core, I remain skeptical. But then again, I am reminded of our proximity to the bay and the walkability to many amenities (grocery stores, pharmacies, post office, coffee shops, etc…) and perhaps I do have some hope for downtown.
Deanna Ratnikova is the creator of The GO Deck – grab a deck today and be inspired to Get Outdoors and GO on new adventures.
